Hausu review – eclectic dishes pull into railway restaurant
Coal Rooms Peckham is no more, but its replacement is far better.
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The Manor review – proof that Clapham isn’t just for wankers
Entire menu reviewed at intriguing Clapham surprise When I’d heard that a restaurant in Clapham, The Dairy, was serving high quality, complex and beguiling food I dismissed the reports as utter lunacy. I regarded Clapham as full of nothing more than crap bars transplanted from the Costas and stuffed to the rafters with wannabe Hooray Henrys braying about … Continue reading
★★★★☆ / British / Burgers / Steak/chophouse
The Wild Game Co review – venison Fitzrovia pop-up
Quality venison that’s not too deer Opening a restaurant is almost as hard work as running one. Some restauranteurs take a long-winded path to opening their own premises, either by choice or necessity, starting off with a street food stall before moving on to pop-ups and eventually their own permanent patch. The Wild Game Co is … Continue reading
The Palomar review – modern Jewish food hits Soho
Modern Jerusalem treats for pre/post-theatre and lone diner meals Despite appearances to the contrary, food from the Middle East has long had a presence in London from the Lebanese restaurants of Edgware Road to the kosher eateries of Golder’s Green. Previous attempts to make Middle Eastern cuisines, or at least food inspired by the Near East, more … Continue reading
Blue Nile Cafe review – a taste of Eritrea in Woolwich
The best restaurant in Woolwich Update 24/9/2018 – updated formatting and added details of autumn 2018 revisit Update 24/12/2021 – this restaurant has now closed Woolwich is not one of London’s premier dining destinations – even the area’s most ardent defenders will admit that. Still, there are some culinary bright spots and one of them is … Continue reading
Smoking Goat review – Thai Soho barbecue
Smoky moody Tottenham Court Road dive bar Updated 12/02/2016 – added back room private dining details Updated 16/02/2015 – updated opening times This review was originally published on 5/11/2014 and has since been updated Thai food in London has been stuck in something of a rut, with the usual pad thais and green curries predominating. That’s slowly … Continue reading
The Joint review – barbecue comes to Marylebone
Eat with your hands, poshos The number of American-style barbecue restaurants is growing, but not necessarily for the better. Mediocre restaurants such as Porky’s and Red Dog Saloon are opening up new branches left, right and centre while far better vendors such as Pitt Cue and Miss P’s Barbecue are still stuck at one site or … Continue reading
Bobo Social review – fussy Fitzrovia burgers
Peanut butter burgers and chocolate chilli bacon sides There are so many burger restaurants in London that it takes something special for one to stand out. Unfortunately for Bobo Social, it didn’t start out well and stood out for all the wrong reasons. While Bobo Social is attractive enough, the small two-floor restaurant fills up quickly, … Continue reading
★★★★★ / ★★★★☆ / ★★★☆☆ / ★★☆☆☆ / ★☆☆☆☆ / Best and Worst group tests / Japanese / Japanese Noodles
The best and worst tonkotsu ramen in London review – Ippudo vs Kanada-Ya vs Bone Daddies and the rest
Not all of London’s Japanese pork bone broth noodle soups are created equal Londoners are experiencing a ramen revolution. This soothing noodle soup, once a hasty add-on buried in the extensive menus of some Japanese restaurants, now has several restaurants dedicated to it. Although there’s lot of joy to be had from shio and shoyu ramen, … Continue reading
Bubba Gump review – cynical tourist trap theme park
Run away, Forrest, run away! Update August 2017 – this restaurant has now closed. It’s very, very easy to be negative about Bubba Gump. The Leicester Square branch of this seafood chain is the first outside the US, but it follows the chain template so closely you would never know you were in London. Themed … Continue reading
Tredwell’s review – why the Evening Standard is wrong about Covent Garden’s best diner
Marcus Wareing or not, you need to eat here Update 4/11/21 – this restaurant has now closed. Covent Garden has more than its fair share of shoddy restaurants. For every quality eatery such as Ape and Bird or Opera Tavern, there’s a dozen more slop houses such as Five Guys or Joe’s Southern Kitchen. Tredwell’s is … Continue reading
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